October 2010
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Month October 2010

Happy Halloween!

My little jack-o-lantern is carved from a green pepper. Then with the magic of Photoshop Halloween it became this spooky and delicious decoration that lasted until just after this photo was taken.
Happy Halloween everybody!

Vae Victis: Afganland IV

In a recent e-mail exchange with Kenny, I asked him a few questions about this great lecture given by David Kilkullen. What really grabbed my attention in the hour long talk was his saying that 85-90% (that number seems astronomically high to me) of the insurgency in Iraq are not committed to the Taliban’s ideas and are fighting for very different reasons.

It was this fact that allowed them to be co-oped by U.S. interests. I knew about the efforts to co-opt with the payoffs the US made to locals in the past but wanted to know about how it is in Afghanistan, in 2010.

So I asked Kenny: Are pay-offs still going on where you are? What’s the picture of the place you’re in? Would you agree that 90% of the insurgents are non-committed?

This was his answer:

In Afghanistan, and especially in Pashtunistan, the Pashtun tribal belt that encompasses this area and across the border into Pakistan, family is the most important tie, next being tribe or sub-tribe. Outside of those immediate ties there is not much allegiance to ideology of any kind, including nationalism. Hence the problem of trying to create legitimacy of the Afghan government in the eyes of the provincials. So yes, people and clans can be co-opted or persuaded to change sides very easily. The problem becomes how to keep them on one side once the U.S. and NATO leave. So pay-offs are still used but not as much as they once were. Now we are trying to create a sense of legitimacy of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. Which is difficult but not impossible. The hard part will be to see if the Afghan government outlasts a U.S. presence. I am not sure that it will.

So to answer your question, no, I do not think that a majority of “Taliban” are motivated by ideology. In Afghanistan we call them enemy forces, or anti-Afghan forces. Because there is some awareness that these fighters are not necessarily Taliban. Many of them are criminals, ex-warlords, or drug smugglers. They used to all get wrapped up into the term Taliban, and still do I imagine, but like I said there is recognition now that many of the groups causing violence are not ideologically motivated but motivated by personal gain. So it is important to recognize who they are, as we should have been doing from the beginning of this mess. Fighting an insurgency is coincidentally very similar to fighting high rates of crime. You have to target them and respond to them in the same way.

Anyway, Kilcullen I imagine was talking mostly about Iraq where there was also a counterinsurgency. I’ll try to keep this brief as I see I went on and on already. In Iraq you had people motivated by pride and honor more so than ideology. So that when the U.S. killed an Iraqi, a family member was honor-bound to try and counteract that somehow or take revenge. Even if that didn’t mean killing a U.S. citizen or serviceman, what it meant was that the family member had to try, or make an appearance of trying to kill an American.

So here is an example:
U.S. gunfire or bombs dropped in Baghdad accidentally kill a civilian boy. That boy’s father or brother is now bound to attempt to exact some revenge. So a U.S. convoy drives by his house one day, he sees the opportunity and fires at the convoy. Maybe just firing on full automatic in the general direction of the convoy, maybe not even trying to intentionally kill a soldier or Marine. Just enough that he can be satisfied that he did something to avenge his dead brother/son. The Americans now mark that house as hostile to the U.S. and go back later and arrest everyone at that house and their neighbors. Thus an insurgency is born. This is what used to happen frequently in Iraq, however tactics have since changed due to the acknowledgment of such tactics ineffectiveness.

I couldn’t tell you if that is the case or not here in my particular area since there is little to no violence from any group, criminal or Taliban. At least not that we have seen. But like I said at the beginning I would guesstimate that Kilcullen is close. Most of these people just want to live quiet provincial lives and grow their crops. If one of their family members is killed it is very easy for the Taliban to co-opt them into doing something for them, whether it be reporting on U.S. presence or movement, or being a suicide bomber. Which is much easier to get them to do once an Afghan’s family member has accidentally been killed by U.S. forces, it hardly even qualifies at that point as being co-opted. That does not make them hard line Taliban or ideologically motivated. It makes them an upset father or brother whose family member was killed.

Ms. Mantis

I spied this little beauty on a walk through the Hyatt garden on my way to the beach yesterday. I’m always impressed by mantids. They have such conspicuous bodies and are the only bug I can think of that has a neck.

Romeo & Juliet Party

I’ve said it before but Sapan parties are incredible events and I hope you already have an idea of what Saipan local hospitality looks like. (If not remind yourself of Pete’s going away party.)

Romeo and Juliet

Friday night was the Romeo and Juliet party for PJ’s cousin Linko and her fiancée Ralph. A Romeo and Juliet is a shower thrown in honor of a couple about to be married. And it’s a surprise.
By the time Linko and Ralph arrived the band had sound checked, the food had been set out and the coolers were full of beer. They had no idea anything had been planned, and it was a lot of fun. It was a weekend of cold beer, plates heavy with food, starry nights and great conversations.

Typhoon Purple

Last night the sky over Garapan filled with dusty purple clouds that washed the streets with a paintbox hue unlike anything I’ve ever seen. It was as if the air itself had grabbed hold of one end of the spectrum and squeezed out this royal shade.

backstage at a sunset

This strange sky is thanks to a very large weather system, Typhoon Juan (A.K.A. Typhoon Megi). It passed us by but rolled right over the Philippines and now it’s grinding toward Southern China. Thankfully here on Saipan we saw only a little eddy thrown off by the main storm. We had dark skies yesterday, some rain, a little thunder and lightning, and these magical purple clouds.

A Laulau Dive

Peter and I took our weekly adventure underwater this Sunday with a delightful trip to Laulau Beach. It gets it’s name from the rough dirt road you have to bounce down to get to it, laolao being the Chamorro word meaning to shake.

The dive was beautiful. Every time I get in the water I’m surprised how warm it is. The water at Laulau is 90° F, and knee-deep for the first 25 feet or so straight out from shore. This shelf drops off into about 10 or 15 feet of water, where we splashed in and followed a well secured rope line out through some reef structures and into a great dive.

I’d love to know the name of the quarter sized matte black swimmers studded with neon sapphires or the posh red-spined coral eater whose tail looks like a brush dipped in bright yellow paint, but we saw a whole school of Naso lituratus, one of maybe three fish species I can identify and my favorite to spot. Peter spotted a large Green sea turtle (the endangered Chelonia mydas) and we got to swim along side it for a few inspiring minutes. These animals have an extraordinarily graceful attitude and style, they seem to fly effortlessly over the sea floor. Very beautiful.

This video is fairly representative of our dive, though we didn’t see a huge school of fish. Also we’re not a Japanese woman.

Closet Cooking

This is my kitchen. Here in Saipan having a comfortably cool home is expensive so cooking outside makes sense. It’s fun too.

Anytime between 5–10 PM the air around the apartment complex is filled with the sweet smell of steamed fresh veggies or fried fish and sesame oil. As people make their dinners you’ll catch sight of them ducking back inside for an extra splash of something.

Everyone has a slightly different style from what I can tell. My neighbor has a little plastic caddy she brings out so everything is at hand. A woman across the parking lot comes out with everything she needs in the wok already and just plops it on the little stove top.

I learned how wise their ways are through trial and error. I broke a soy sauce bottle, spilled quantities of oil on the ground, and tipped a tray of broccoli and peppers before settling on a my  method for dinner making. Nothing fancy. I put a dollop of oil in the pan before I bring it outside. I cut all my veggies up inside on my kitchen table and trot them out as needed. My stir-fry sauce I mix up in a little jar and bring out right when I need it. The results are delicious!

What Makes HF&J So Great

A tour of the level of detail that goes into Hoefler & Frere-Jones’ fonts.

In the middle of Gotham, our family of 66 sans serifs, there is a hushed but surprising moment: a fraction whose numerator has a serif. So important was this detail that we decided to offer it as an option for all the other fractions, a decision that ultimately required more than 400 new drawings. Why?

As you’ll read below, it’s something that we added because we felt it mattered. Even if it helped only a small number of designers solve a subtle and esoteric problem, we couldn’t rest knowing that an unsettling typographic moment might otherwise lie in wait. We’ve always believed that a good typeface is the product of thousands of decisions like these, so we invite you to join us on a behind-the-scenes look at some of the invisible details that go into every font from H&FJ.

Aspirational.

From Kottke.org

Some Garapan Signs

Biba Santa Remedio

Open Fire Rotisserie

In preparation for the Tanapeg fiesta peter and I “helped out” spit roasting a young cow. All the real work was done long before we arrived, so our “helping out” was only witnessing it take place. The small roasting fires had been lit at 5 AM just before the small cow (from a San Roque farm) was wired onto the skewer and put in place. Tedious hours of “turning the key” followed the constant rotation made slightly easier by a car’s steering wheel attached to one end of the spit.

By the time we arrived in the early afternoon it was almost cooked through. The last of a mixture of meat tenderizing salt, vinegar and spice was dabbed over the meat. (A stick with a tee-shirt tied around one end was the basting brush.) Some one collected some huge flat banana leaves and spread them on the serving table just as dinner was pronounced “done” after a few clean jabs with a sharp stick.

The long spit was heaved off it’s supports and carefully carried by several practiced hands to the table where it stayed balanced as others went to work clipping and untwisting the wires that held it centered. Just before the spit was carefully removed the roast was turned on it’s back and with a silver and black Buck knife a pair of choice strips were taken from the inside of it’s lower back. (Any amateur butchers know that cut’s name?) These were sliced up and shared, but no one close to the work resisted picking and tasting little bits. (Imagine little fingers dipping into a frosted cake and you have the image.)

A few meters of aluminum foil were taped around the roast and we all heaved to get the table up and secure into the too small truck bed. As you can see we never really got it into the truck bed, more around the truck bed but it worked well enough.